Yesterday it felt like we dipped our toes into Istanbul, and then today we dove in headfirst. After some playing we headed out with a plan to walk across the Galata bridge to the grand bazaar. As we were walking, Millie did her usual “I’m hungry” whine. Nick and I both looked at each other and realized we were near the place that our friends Annette and Murat said had the best baklava in town (Karaköy Güllüoğlu). So we made a small detour and headed there.

We ordered too much: a sampler platter with some add-ons, a walnut baklava, a chocolate one, some very sweet cake, and a side of Dondurma, a Turkish ice cream that famously doesn’t melt. You can imagine Millie’s excitement that we were having ice cream on a Tuesday morning. We both took our first bites, and looked at each other with “wtf” looks. It was very strange! Felt like eating hard whipped cream. Almost like a thick crisco. We didn’t like it.

She loved the chocolate baklava and liked the cake but didn’t care for the rest. Nick and I loved everything and ate way too much sugar. Role reversal! Our favorite was the traditional baklava – crunch, chewy, wet, and just on the edge of too sweet. We savored every bite and washed them down with Turkish coffee and tea.

Bellies full, we walked on to the bridge and past all the fish restaurants. It was sweltering hot but tolerable in the shade.

This was the first time we had really seen the city from a distance and it was beautiful. I recognized some sights and started to get my bearings.

On the other side of the bridge we arrived at the spice bazaar. It was fragrant and beautiful and everywhere we turned men were trying to give us samples of Turkish Delights. We’ve taught Millie not to take anything from men that offer things to her as it’s probably a trap to force money out of us. A great lesson for her life in general: take nothing from a man.

Nick had read about a restaurant in the market and when we noticed a small door in the corner plastered with Michelin star plaques, we knew we had arrived at Pandeli restaurant. We walked up the beautiful staircase and Millie insisted on taking a photo for her Granny because she knew she’d like the colors.

We were still full from our baklava but ordered two plates to share: fish kofte and the sultan’s lamb stew. They were so good. Millie loved the lamb, which is one of the only meats she will eat.

Fully stuffed now, we started to walk to the Grand Bazaar which is the giant market of everything. We got as far as a bazaar-style Claire’s, where we let Millie pick out one item of cheap crap. We are trying to say yes to more.

At this point she requested to leave the market and I kind of agreed. I get overwhelmed in the hustle and bustle of these places, and we weren’t planning on buying anything. So we walked back out to open space.

Millie had been requesting going on a boat all morning so we found a cheap Bosphorus cruise and hopped on. Once we were on she couldn’t have cared less about being on a boat. She drew most of the time and Nick and I couldn’t hear any of the guide’s explanation, but we were happy to be sitting in the shade and cruising. We saw a few big tankers crossing through and Nick googled them to learn where they were from, what they were carrying, and where they were headed. I love the internet.

Back on land we still had a whole afternoon to fill, so we walked to the Basilica Cisterns. Once again we paid an exorbitant entrance fee and I continued to kick myself for not getting the seemingly expensive packaged tourist ticket that includes many of these things. Too late now.

On our way Millie complained a ton but we practiced the acknowledge-once-and-ignore method and eventually she snapped out of it without it escalating. She stopped to ask to take a picture with “her new friend” and as we were leaving whispered “I love you” to him.

The cistern was as cool as Nick promised it would be. It was massive. I feel like in the last couple of months we have gotten a Masters in Roman history. It’s been so fun to see Millie put the pieces together: the Roman baths in Bath, the aqueduct in Tunisia, and the cistern in Istanbul. These guys sure knew a thing or two about water.

My favorite parts were the sculptures of Medusa and learning that many of these columns used here were taken from elsewhere, so none of them matched. Texans complain about reusing grocery bags, meanwhile the Romans were reusing columns.

We took the tram back to our apartment, played some more, and made a simple pasta dinner. It was a very full and good day.

Days since meltdown: 4. We have tried to change our approach some after lots of discussion and advice from friends (thank you Katie!). Every morning I let Millie lead playtime and get some of her play energy out, so we start the day in a good mood. Then, when she starts to whine or enter a meltdown zone, we just let her and ignore it. This stops us from getting into the cycle of us telling her to stop doing something and then her pushing back (within reason of course). Lastly, I’ve been trying to just say yes to more things. Of course it could have nothing to do with us. She might just be through whatever phase she was in and we have a break until a new difficult phase starts. Who knows, but I’m enjoying it while it lasts.