Lots of playtime again this morning before heading out to visit Topkapi Palace. We took the tram over there. Just a few days ago I had no idea what to expect in terms of how we should navigate Istanbul, and now we can walk to the tram and take it to the right stop without needing to look at a map. With every new place on this trip our “we’ll figure it out” confidence grows and grows. I love that feeling.

Once we got to the palace we had to sell all our belongings and dip into Millie’s college savings in order to buy our entrance tickets: 4800 lira each, which is about $60 apiece. I think the hardest part is feeling like we were spending so much in Amsterdam and then assuming it would all balance out, only to find that Turkey is probably more expensive. I plan to read this Wikipedia article on the economic crisis as soon as I’m done writing this post.

Monetary complaints aside, I’m glad we went. Before heading in we sat on a curb to have some coffee and snacks. Out of nowhere there was a military parade going past in front of us. I’m not sure if this is something they do all the time, but it felt special to us and set the mood for visiting the home of the Sultan. Millie asked us no less than 15 times, “what is a sultan again?”

We headed into the lush green grounds of the palace. Istanbul has very little green space so this felt very different than all the city surrounding it.

We saw his collection of weapons and treasures. Millie loved the clothing section of the museum area. A game we have played recently is that I draw an outline of a person or clothing items and she designs on top of it. Future fashion or costume designer?

Nick, as always, got really into explaining the exhibits to her. She shouted excitedly in this room “mom I’ve never seen a sword in real life before!!”

We walked through his personal quarters and the harem. The details, colors, and how the light hit the different surfaces was just incredible.

All these couches and thrones and not an Ottoman ottoman in sight. I loved the serenity of the baths area. Millie always loves seeing where people poop.

There was again some unspoken “ickiness” to the exhibits. For example they showed (complete with a lifelike mannequin) that the harem was guarded by Black Eunuchs, but then didn’t get into any detail about what that meant or how these men became Black eunuchs. Likewise for all the signs about the Sultan’s concubines, which were basically sex slaves. On the plus side, I’m glad I didn’t need to explain castration or rape to a 4-year-old today.

We spent longer than expected walking around and decided we were too hot and hungry to go to a second museum. On the way out Millie cooled down in a fountain just outside of the palace.

In an effort to save money we researched the best nearby döner kebap, and headed there for lunch. Good news: it was delicious. Bad news: this cost $30.

We headed back to the tram and then our Airbnb. Millie’s a little pro now, hanging onto the tram straps and walking up the steep cobblestones.

Nick went out to get a very necessary haircut and Millie and I set up and planned an elaborate “family party”. We made crowns, decorations, place settings, and a schedule of events (dancing, play catch, eat, and chat). It was simple, cute, and fun.

When Nick got back we did the party activities one by one and then went to bed.